The Fashion Institute of Technology’s (FIT) master’s program in Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management (CFMM), known as the “Beauty Industry’s Think Tank,” unveiled results from “The Future of Accessible Beauty,” its comprehensive Capstone research study, on June 26, 2024, at FIT’s Haft Auditorium. The graduating class of 2024, consisting of professionals currently working in the beauty industry, presented their research and shared predictions of consumer behaviors, retail strategies, market potential, and ways brands may adapt for an inclusive and dynamic future beauty landscape.

The program was introduced by Class of 2004 alumni, Kate Foster, CEO and co-founder, The Outset; Tennille Kopiasz, CEO, Frederic Fekkai and Bastide; and Larissa Jensen, SVP/global beauty advisor, Circana, who affirmed the value of a program that continues to provide both leadership and life lessons, as it explores the changing face of the beauty industry. FIT President Dr. Joyce F. Brown told attendees that the support of former students for the growing program makes her proud.

“Each year their thoughtful insights continue to illuminate the industry,” said Brown.

She highlighted the work of the current graduating class and emphasized the impact of their research on elevating industry inclusivity across three realms, including Emotional Impact, Economic Consequences and Social Impact.

Brown noted FIT was the first non-MBA degree-granting institution invited to the prestigious Executive Global MBA Council. Turning to the Capstone research, she cited the work that has been done around diversity, and said, “There is still work to be done in the areas of accessibility, all to better serve a wide range of the population.”

She thanked the CFMM’s Founding Chair and Professor, Stephan Kanlian. She thanked The Fragrance Foundation and Firmenich, whose scholarships, she said, “will bolster the talent and intellect of those who will help diversify the industry.”

Brown thanked event sponsor, Shiseido Americas for its support, and introduced Emmie Salaj, global general manager, Tory Burch Beauty, and chief operating officer, Dr. Dennis Gross Skincare, Shiseido Americas, Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing and Management, Class of 2009, who presented the Shiseido Americas Innovation Award and introduced a video message from Ron Gee, chief executive officer, Shiseido Americas. Gee acknowledged the 30 Shiseido Americas employees who had completed the CFMM program; and congratulated the group of first-year student Innovation Award recipients, who created a functional fragrance known as “The Seed Project,” based on the microbiome and designed to address mental well-being. The Seed Project creators were Bari Blitzer, Chloe Lo, Brittany O’Leary, Ali Valentin and Miranda Huang.

The Beauty Center at FIT

Kanlian also highlighted the opening of the FIT Beauty Center, saying, “The Beauty Center at FIT is a collaborative industry/academic hub for consumer and business research with the beauty industry. We are proud to debut our first global research study that can utilize this new center for industry salons and roundtables that integrate the academic research into industry strategy.”

Thanking Brown, with whom he interviewed 25 years ago, Kanlian acknowledged a remarkable journey of collaboration and growth at FIT. The content and environment surrounding the class of 2024 contributed to what he called, “The year of living magically,” and with the opening of the new Beauty Center, said, “I am speechless to see my dreams for the program come true.”

Kanlian provided a presentation overview, and explained the research focused on consumers who are traditionally overlooked due to physical, emotional, social or economic limitations. Research included field study in Vietnam, Greece, India and Singapore. Students explored three realms of inclusivity—Emotional Impact, Impact of Economic Deserts and Social Impact. Part One, Emotional and Physical Accessibility, was presented by Group Leaders, Shiyin Lin, digital marketing manager, travel retail integrated marketing, The Estée Lauder Companies, and Maclean Liotta, beauty marketing, Chanel.

Part One: Emotional Impact

Students explored a landscape where inclusivity is at the forefront of beauty. Their research showed that “inclusivity is no longer just a buzzword, but a powerful movement that is reshaping boardrooms, labs and campaigns.” They noted considerable research has been done around diversity in skin tones, body types, genders and ages. Yet, there is a demographic that remains underrepresented; i.e., the 15-20% of the global population identified as neurodiverse or people with disabilities (PWD).

Student research revealed that with $13 trillion spending power, inclusion is not just a moral imperative, but a lucrative growth opportunity for the beauty industry. Students cited the importance of product design, omnichannel sales and marketing strategies, and shared relevant findings including:

• 65% of people with disabilities face inaccessible packaging issues;

• Visually impaired consumers require help in reading products; and

• Neurodiverse consumers have other needs, including limited dexterity.

The students noted that easy open caps, as seen in Fenty’s packaging and Rare Beauty by Selena Gomez, are examples of brands that offer thoughtful packaging experiences for everyone, including those with limited dexterity.

Marketing strategies cited included color-coded shopping baskets, currently seen in Sephora in Europe, which indicate shoppers need assistance; packaging made from durable, shatter-resistant materials and high-contrast colors; and the use of tactile symbols to provide accessible elements for in-store navigation. Changes in lighting and signage would significantly improve the retail in-store experience.

“Marketing strategies must be authentic, recognizing the impact of language in the marketing process,” said students.

Many opportunities to embrace diversity and inclusion in the beauty industry exist. Meeting the needs of people with disabilities requires a multifaceted approach across all brand functions. Whether needs are neurological, physical or sensory, changes in product design, omnichannel sales and marketing, are critical to inclusivity. Capstone research also encouraged the development of inclusive workplace policies and education across all functions to create a supportive environment for all people, enriching organizational culture and spurring innovation.

Another focus of the Capstone research, Economic Accessibility, was presented by Group Leaders Shivani Banerji, director, Redken Styling, L’Oréal USA and Sabina Gosto Dersh, assistant vice president, cleansers and makeup removers Métier, L’Oréal Research and Innovation.

Part Two: Economic Consequences of Deserts

Unlocking equitable access lies in addressing the often-overlooked challenge of “deserts,” where services or products are unavailable. These geographic areas present a challenge to millions of consumers in the US. According to student research, 121 million US consumers live in healthcare deserts and nearly 54 million live in food deserts. This lack of access to essential goods carries over to deserts that exist within beauty. Fundamental beauty products, including soap, shampoo, skincare and sun care products, are often inaccessible to those living in particular areas. Students found 43% of consumers sacrifice household goods to buy fundamental beauty products. Consumers of color say they cannot find the products they need within reach.

“If consumers are out of options, brands can’t win with market share,” explained the presenters. They revealed that “today, deserts are a pressing macroeconomic phenomenon affecting consumers across critical sectors.”

Opportunities exist to reach these consumers with beauty products and services, and serve consumers of all socioeconomic strata. To address the challenges, students suggested the beauty industry navigate the three factors that define the challenge of deserts: excessive distance and time spent traveling for beauty products and services, high costs in acquiring these products, and sparse assortment and availability of products that meet consumer needs.

They suggested the creation of “hyperhubs,” that are placed in accessible distribution beauty outposts, whether vending machines or specific beauty outposts, that can be placed where consumers need them. Taking inspiration from Mobile Health Solutions, the students referred to the creation of a Beauty Relief Fleet, where dermatology, healthcare, baby care products and more, can provide access for communities of all strata.

“Brands must re-envision their traditional distribution, pricing, and investment strategies to create lasting change, reach overlooked consumers, and solve for this estimated $10 billion opportunity,” urged the students while insisting beauty brands must “step up, adapt and prioritize.”

The final portion of the Capstone project, Social Accessibility, was presented by Group Leaders Sanam Gidwani, senior manager, brand marketing at Parfums Christian Dior, LVMH and Shelby Newell, senior global brand marketing manager, ELF Cosmetics.

Part Three: Social Impact

The beauty industry has consistently supported women’s empowerment; however, one vital area has been overlooked—hormonal health. Students cited a striking statistic, stating only 1% of a $200 billion market spent on healthcare research and development is focused on women’s health. They found that from puberty to menopause and beyond, women contend with hormonal fluctuations that lead to beauty concerns that are often unmet. Their research revealed that “Despite the growing convergence of wellness and beauty, women’s holistic hormonal needs are often sidelined, perpetuating feelings of neglect and invisibility.”

According to the students the FDA banned women from clinical trials in 1977. It took two decades for the US to reverse this decision; by then, the damage was done. Increasing funding for women’s health would provide big returns for families, businesses and the economy.

“Simply put, better women’s health leads to a better society,” said Capstone presenters.

They advocated for proportional health care funding for men and women, noting that McKinsey estimates that by 2040 closing the health gap could boost the global economy by $1 trillion annually, confirming that, “Women’s health investment is not just better science, it is a better investment in the long term.”

Students found that women’s health is often reduced to sexual health, leaving hormonal health underfunded. Citing brand disparity in the market, they said that Rogaine (minoxidil), is expected to be a $2.4 billion men’s hair loss industry, but they challenged anyone to name a single brand dedicated to alleviating women’s post-partum hair loss.

According to their research, beauty is a $532 billion global industry, with over half of women globally regularly using beauty products. Their proprietary research found that 72% of women believe that beauty brands should support women’s health initiatives, and 7 out of 10 women feel underserved, misrepresented, and neglected by the industry meant to serve them. As a result, women are self-educating. They concluded, “Failing to address women’s hormonal needs overlooks our society’s responsibility and disregards a major financial opportunity.”

According to Nielsen, the $97 billion US beauty market is increasingly intertwined with wellness. It includes supplements ($21 billion), candles and fragrance oils ($2 billion), functional beverages ($9 billion), and personal health ($12 billion), it represents a $141 billion US Beauty Market (Nielsen).

Further, 95% of women want the link between wellness and external beauty addressed. Consumers have shifted priorities to include supplements in their beauty routines, and external beauty has become increasingly linked with wellness, a shift that calls for recognition.

Students advocated for bridging the gap between beauty and wellness by emphasizing accessible education, products and research tailored to women’s comprehensive holistic well-being. They concluded, that “Considering hormonal health in product development, research, and education is integral to the needs of women across different life stages; and supporting women’s holistic well-being would enable seamless integration into a woman’s lifelong journey, and foster authentic relationships.”

Recognition of Students and Faculty

Dr. Brooke Carlson, interim dean, school of graduate studies, FIT, congratulated Kanlian on “25 years of remarkable achievement,” and presented him with a special plaque on behalf of FIT. She then introduced the Scholarship Recognition Award and the Outstanding Scholar Award. The Scholarship Recognition Award honorees were Maclean Liotta, beauty marketing, Chanel; and Shiyin Lin, digital marketing manager, travel retail integrated marketing, The Estée Lauder Companies. The Outstanding Scholar Award was presented to Shivani Banerji, director, Redken Styling, L’Oréal USA.

The Coty Award for Professional Excellence, was presented by Debbie Erickson, general manager, luxury and consumer beauty divisions, Coty USA. The recipient was Erica Roberson, vice president, DE&I, professional products division, L’Oréal, Class of 2013. Roberson’s “The Texture of Change,” initiative has amplified education in the textured hair arena.

The Estée Lauder Companies Faculty Leadership Award, presented by Michael Bowes, senior vice president, global talent, The Estée Lauder Companies, was awarded to Karen Young, adjunct instructor and CEO, The Young Group.

The L’Oréal Student Leadership Award, presented by David Greenberg, chief executive officer, L’Oréal US and former chairperson, CFMM Industry Advisory Board, was awarded to Sabina Gosto Dersh, assistant vice president, cleansers and makeup remover Métier, L’Oréal Research and Innovation.

The Department Medal, presented by Corey Moran, head of industry, fashion and luxury, Google; adjunct professor, cosmetics and fragrance marketing and management and secretary, FIT Foundation Board, was presented to Maclean Liotta, beauty marketing, Chanel.

A reception hosted by Shiseido Americas in honor of the Class of 2024, followed the award presentation.